Friday, February 6, 2009

ZAACHILA Tianguis (Market)

If you are in Oaxaca on Thursdays, head early to Zaachila about 10 miles south of Oaxaca. You can grab a group cab at the Abastos Market in Oaxaca for under a dollar, riding with the locals. Go directly to the small excavated tombs, uncovered in 1962, to get there before tour buses might arrive as tombs are small and only one at a time can fit. The local guard has photos of all the unearthed gold pieces and fabulous ceramics, which, he said, were taken by the American archeologists to Mexico City Anthropological Museum, never to be seen again by locals. Hence, further excavations were forbidden here; one can only imagine what additional treasures lie under the remaining nearby small and medium-sized mounds. Then wander down the hill to the market with thousands of Zapotec-speaking locals who are chatting, buying,and selling everything under the sun.Buy a live turkey or two for your own mole! We ate a local specialty, barbequed goat and lamb tacos, complete with chopped cabbage 'curtido' and a cold beer. No resulting stomach issues, thankfully. The trick to eating street food is to always get it right off the hot comal... Then stop off at Cuilapan and visit the Ex-Convento de Santiago where Vicente Guerrero was executed in 1931 (he is known as the father of the Revolution....) Construction began in 1535, ended in 1570. Lovely. It's being renovated once again.

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